Many decades before creme brulee and panna cotta became trendy, Alden Rowland Dye was treating her family to a similar custard dessert known as "rock cream." Her granddaughter submitted it to our ongoing Southern Recipe Restoration Project, and chef Virginia Willis tried it, with great success. It also inspired her to devise her own Southern-style panna cotta.

The contributor: Molly Dye Franklin, a Waynesboro native reared in Augusta who has spent her professional career in Atlanta, other than the eight years she worked for the late U.S. Sen. Paul Coverdell in Washington. She is president of Molly Dye & Associates, specializing in governmental affairs.

Family photo (ENLARGE)

Molly Dye Franklin (center) continues the tradition of making Rock Cream shared by her late grandmother (right) -- affectionately known as Gan-ge. Granddaughters (from back left) Alden, Mary and Suzann also try their hand.

LOUIE FAVORITE/AJC (ENLARGE)

Virginia Willis' Buttermilk Panna Cotta With Blackberry Coulis.

LOUIE FAVORITE/AJC (ENLARGE)

Gan-ge's Rock Cream.

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The story: Christmas wouldn't be our family's Southern Christmas without the Rock Cream! The name is actually a misnomer.... There is nothing "rocky" about this jellied creme brulee.

In the early 1900s in Waynesboro, my grandmother, Alden Rowland Dye's, mother's recipe could only be made in winter given its need for the cold weather to congeal. My great-grandmother (for whom I'm named) made this delectable dessert in a cooled kitchen with the back door open, placing the mold outdoors for coagulation.

Once refrigeration became a given, it was easy to serve, but my grandmother honored her past with only serving it on the coldest holidays. She was famous for having on the warmer Christmas days a roaring fire in the fireplace while running the central air conditioning full blast, just for the effect.

She enjoyed unmolding it onto a large platter and placing holly branches around the rim. In the center of her ring mold she placed a huge mound of whipped cream with red and green cherries atop.

A few years ago, she and I made the Rock Cream together in my kitchen, and while I'll never be able to duplicate the love and affection she gave to her family in its making, I'll be able to keep the tradition going.

Gan-ge's Rock Cream
8 servings

Hands on: 30 minutes
Total time: 30 minutes (plus 12 hours chilling time)

"Gan-ge" was the name Molly Dye Frankin and her siblings called their grandmother Alden Rowland Dye — who served this wonderfully creamy, old-fashioned dessert as her mother did, in the coldest months when refrigeration was not available. Now that that is not an issue, chef Virginia Willis found it to be lovely in warmer months as well. She notes that the rock cream is actually richer than the similar panna cotta because of the eggs. (Note: To avoid a slight health risk posed by raw eggs, substitute 3/4 cup pasteurized egg whites for the separated whites.)

4 cups whole milk, divided
2 (1/4-ounce) envelopes unflavored gelatin
6 eggs, separated (see note above)
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar, divided
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract or sherry
Whipped cream, for garnish
Candied or maraschino cherries, for garnish

Place 1 cup of the milk in a measuring cup; sprinkle in unflavored gelatin. Let stand until gelatin softens, about 10 minutes.

Place the remaining milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook until simmering. Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks with 1 cup of the sugar.

Whisking constantly, slowly pour the scalded milk over egg-and-sugar mixture. Add reserved gelatin mixture. Pour the mixture into a double boiler over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the gelatin is dissolved and the mixture coats a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat.

Transfer to a medium bowl and place over a bowl of ice water. Stir constantly to cool, 5 to 7 minutes. (Do not allow the gelatin to congeal.) Set aside.

In the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites on low speed until frothy. Increase the speed to high and continue whipping, slowly adding the remaining 1/2 cup sugar until stiff peaks form, 3 to 5 minutes.

Pour the reserved custard over the whites, add vanilla or sherry, and fold to combine. Pour mixture into 9-inch cake pan or shallow "salad" mold.

Transfer to refrigerator and chill until set, preferably overnight.

When ready to serve, whip the cream. To unmold: Slide a knife around the outer edge and place a round serving platter or plate over the mold and turn mold upside down. Decorate with whipped cream on top and garnish with cherries. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 309 calories (percent of calories from fat, 23), 9 grams protein, 51 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, 8 grams fat (4 grams saturated), 176 milligrams cholesterol, 133 milligrams sodium.

Virginia Willis' Buttermilk Panna Cotta With Blackberry Coulis
6 servings

Hands on: 20 minutes
Total time: 6 hours, 20 minutes

Although the Italian dessert panna cotta translates as "cooked cream," in fact, you heat the heavy cream only long enough to dissolve the sugar and the gelatin. When testing the Rock Cream, it occurred to chef Virginia Willis that the dessert seemed very much like a panna cotta in taste and consistency and inspired her chef's version using buttermilk for a Southern flair and a garnish of blackberry coulis.

2 tablespoons water
1 (1/4-ounce) envelope unflavored gelatin
1 cup heavy cream
8 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided
2 cups whole-fat buttermilk
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 pint blackberries, divided
1 tablespoon Chambord, optional (or water)
Pinch of salt

Put 2 tablespoons water into small bowl; sprinkle in unflavored gelatin. Let stand until gelatin softens, about 10 minutes.

Combine heavy cream and 7 tablespoons of the sugar in heavy medium saucepan. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves and mixture is hot but not boiling. Remove from heat; add gelatin mixture and stir until gelatin is completely dissolved and mixture is smooth. Transfer to a medium bowl and place over a bowl of ice water. Stir constantly to cool, 5 to 7 minutes. (Do not allow the gelatin to congeal.)

Stir the buttermik and vanilla extract into the cooled cream mixture. Pour mixture into 4-cup measuring cup. Divide mixture among six 3/4-cup custard cups or ramekins. Refrigerate until panna cotta is set, at least 6 hours and up to 1 day.

Meanwhile, in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment, puree half the blackberries, remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and Chambord (or water) with a pinch of salt until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve to remove the seeds; set aside until ready to serve.

Run thin sharp knife around sides of each panna cotta to loosen. One at a time, place bottom of each custard cup in 1 inch of hot water 30 to 45 seconds; immediately invert custard cup onto plate. Using both hands, firmly grasp custard cup and plate together, shaking gently and allowing panna cotta to settle onto plate. Spoon reserved coulis around the panna cotta; garnish with remaining blackberries and mint. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 288 calories (percent of calories from fat, 48), 4 grams protein, 34 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 16 grams fat (10 grams saturated), 57 milligrams cholesterol, 138 milligrams sodium.