For this installment of our ongoing series, Atlanta cookbook author and chef Virginia Willis tested a reader's somewhat lighter version of eggnog, along with another reader's offering of the perfect accompaniment.

Here are their stories as told to Susan Puckett.

Family photo (ENLARGE)

Lizzie Mikell, Janice Ingram's great-aunt, left a legacy of her famous cherry cookies.

Family photo (ENLARGE)

Anna Maude Morris Woodworth, with her beloved white gloves, on granddaughter Lucy Gay's wedding day.

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The contributor: Lucy Gay, a West Virginia native who has lived in Georgia since 1968 (the year her grandmother died), and in Carrollton since 1971. Her husband, Jim, is retired from the history department at the University of West Georgia; she is a retired English teacher and guidance counselor. They have a grown daughter, Abigail.

The story: "This recipe has been part of our holidays for as long as I can remember. I also make it for friends who are recuperating from surgery or cancer treatment, since it is so comforting and nutritious. Made properly, it should be like drinking velvet.

"I grew up in Huntington, W.Va. My paternal grandmother, Anna Maude Morris Woodworth, had Christmas and Thanksgiving, as well as frequent Sunday family dinners, at her house, which was located just across the street from Marshall University, where my uncle was director of student services.

"My grandmother was one of those cooks who didn't have recipes for most of what she cooked, so her fried chicken, peach pies, fruitcakes and yeast rolls live on only in family legend. She made the fruitcakes a long time before Christmas and kept them wrapped in cheesecloth in large tins in her pantry (I can still remember how delicious her pantry smelled). Every few days she would liberally douse them in brandy, or it might have been bourbon; and by the time the holidays arrived, they were thoroughly soused.

"The fruitcake was always served with a glass of drinking custard. The grandchildren got to spend the night with Grandmother, but only one at a time. My two aunts lived with her. When you went to spend the night, you were treated royally, even served an evening snack on a tray. My mother always said it took about a week to get me unspoiled after my overnight with Grandmother and the aunties.

"I vividly remember stopping by my grandmother's house with my father after he made evening rounds at the hospital. He would occasionally take one of us with him on his evening rounds. This didn't happen too often but was always a big treat. Grandmother would sit us down with a slice of fruitcake and a glass of drinking custard if it was around the holidays.

"She was one of those ladies who never left the house without hat and gloves. She had a wonderful sense of humor and was known for getting the giggles. Once, after I was old enough to drive, I took her to the grocery store (she did not drive) and while she wasn't looking slipped a whole beef tongue into her cart. When she saw it, she shrieked, then laughed so hard she cried.

"She did not have an easy time early in her life. Her husband died young, leaving her with four children from about ages 6 to 12. It was a real struggle for them at that time. They all turned out well, though, and remained a close and loving family. She did marry again, and that second husband, whom they all referred to as Mr. Woodworth, is the grandfather I remember.

"The reason there is a recipe for the drinking custard is that she gave it to my mother, who was also a wonderful cook, so that she could make it for Daddy since it was such a favorite of his. My two sisters and I carry on the tradition of the drinking custard. Whenever I drink it, it is all the richer for the memories it holds.

"Jim and Abby [her husband and daughter] both love drinking custard and now consider it their family tradition as well. It's wonderful how something so simple can connect the generations!"

Drinking Custard
8 servings

Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 10 minutes

Lucy Gay also suggests adding sherry, bourbon or brandy, if desired. She often doubles the recipe, since in her household there is no such thing as "enough" Drinking Custard. It's also good as a sauce for poundcake or angel food cake.

1 quart whole milk
3 large eggs
1/3 cup granulated sugar, more if you like it sweeter
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the milk to a simmer. Whisk together the eggs, sugar and salt in a medium bowl. Slowly whisk the hot milk into the egg mixture. Place the milk-egg mixture in the top of a double boiler over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture slightly thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add vanilla.

Per serving: 137 calories (percent of calories from fat, 39), 6 grams protein, 14 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, 6 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 93 milligrams cholesterol, 219 milligrams sodium.

The contributor: Janice Ingram, a mother of two and grandmother of five who was born in Macon and reared in Smyrna. She and her husband, Ed, have been married for 36 years. She belongs to the Great Sky Garden Club and enjoys "sewing everything from curtains and drapes to outfits for our grandchildren."

The story: "In 1990, my 90-year-old great-aunt, Lizzie Mikell, passed away and I inherited her notebook of handwritten recipes. Our family has many fond memories of driving to Fitzgerald about six times a year, [where] each visit was complemented with the finest of Southern cooking. Our mother's father was disabled after World War I from mustard gas damage and several bullets that remained in his body. So when my mom's mother passed away soon after she turned 13, this gentle lady and her sister Laura Lee helped raise her and her sister and brother and an abandoned cousin. They never married but lived a full life caring for others.

"Lizzie baked cakes for many families and Laura Lee was a seamstress for several of the more prominent families in Fitzgerald. During World War II, neighbors and friends would save their rations so Lizzie could bake their favorite cakes!

"Our mother tells us of the many hours she spent at the Fitzgerald Carnegie Library after her mother passed away. So, in honor of our mother, as an effort to raise money for the Ben Hill County library in Fitzgerald, my sister and I have collected Lizzie's recipes in a book that also tells of our trips to Fitzgerald."

Ingram says that the book, "Sweetcakes of Fitzgerald," can be ordered for $15 (includes shipping and handling) at shseter@fbhcl.org; or call Sandy Lester at 229-426-5080.

Lizzie Mikell's Cherry Cookies
Makes about 1 1/2 dozen

Hands on: 15 minutes
Total time: 45 minutes

This recipe was found in Janice Ingram's great-aunt's handwritten cookbook. To earn extra money, she baked cakes and pastries for many well-to-do families in Fitzgerald. Recipe can be doubled and tripled as desired.

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature, more for the baking sheet
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 egg, separated
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 tablespoon orange zest
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 cup cake flour (not self-rising)
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 cup finely chopped pecans
10 candied cherries or maraschino cherries, halved

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a baking sheet with a small amount of butter or line a baking sheet with a silicone baking sheet; set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolk, vanilla, orange zest and lemon juice with the mixer on low speed. Add the flour and salt and continue mixing until a smooth, soft dough forms. Transfer to a bowl and chill until firm, about 15 minutes in the freezer or 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

Meanwhile, place the egg white in a shallow bowl and beat until frothy. Place the nuts in a second bowl. Once the dough is chilled, using your hands or a small ice cream scoop, shape small round balls about 1/2 inch in diameter. Dip each ball in the egg white, then roll in chopped nuts. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Place a half cherry on the top of each, pressing slightly so the cherry will adhere. Bake until light golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool slightly.

Per cookie: 132 calories (percent of calories from fat, 66), 1 gram protein, 10 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 10 grams fat (4 grams saturated), 26 milligrams cholesterol, 22 milligrams sodium.