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HEALTHY EATING

How to decode menus for nutrition content

For The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Menu descriptions of dishes are written to entice diners to say, “That sounds good!”

I can’t wait to try the grilled tenderloin of beef with crispy potato-leek cake, caviar and red wine reduction on the menu at Dogwood restaurant in Atlanta. The grilled cobia with summer vegetable cous cous and charred pepper vinaigrette sounds awesome, too.

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Lauren Rubenstein

The pan-fried Georgia trout, pink-eyed peas, blue crab and corn succotash entree is beautifully described on Dogwood’s menu.

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More healthy eating links

And since many chefs today — including Shane Touhy of Dogwood — reveal just about every ingredient and cooking method in menu descriptions, it’s easier to read between the lines to find the food facts you need to help decode the nutrition content.

In general, red-flag words for dishes high in fat and calories include cream, butter, fried, sautéed and cheese sauce. Green lights for choices lower in fat and calories include grilled, broiled, primavera, salsa and broth.

Crispy = code word

So, first look at how the dish is prepared. Is it deep-fat fried or charbroiled? Does it come with a butter sauce or a fresh fruit salsa? Is it a broth-based soup or made with heavy cream? OK, these are some of the obvious clues. Now you’re ready for some advanced menu sleuthing.

What if the word “fried” is nowhere to be seen? “Crispy” can be a code word for fried. And “silky sauce” a sign that butter is lurking. Even “poached” isn’t always the light way to go. Some chefs actually poach seafood in butter or oil, not the usual water-based broths.

That doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the occasional tempura-battered fried shrimp or side of creamed spinach. It just means that when you see them on the menu, you know it’s time to take pause. You can choose to either limit portions, or limit the number of times you order these higher fat choices.

Even “grilled” or “broiled” aren’t always innocent because the chicken or fish can be slathered in oil or butter while it’s on the fire. Make sure to request that your item be broiled “dry” or “lightly brushed with oil.” The server is your conduit to the kitchen.

While restaurants such as Applebee’s offer menu selections from Weight Watchers that are clearly marked with calorie counts, lighter choices are not always highlighted.

Healthy dishes such as gazpacho, poached salmon and pasta primavera have become part of mainstream dining. And you don’t have to settle for less fun, because now chefs borrow interesting ingredients from Asian and Mediterranean cuisines to add bold flavors to dishes without adding additional fats. So, thanks to globe-trotting chefs these lighter dishes taste better than ever!

MENU-SPEAK, MADE EASY

Fat by any other name

Aioli: Mayonnaise with garlic

Au gratin: Topped with cheese, butter and bread-crumb mixture

Beurre: Butter’s French name

Bisque: Most often a cream-based soup

Béarnaise: Watch the “-aise,” which indicates egg-based mayonnaise

Crispy: Code word for fried!

Crusted or encrusted: Coated with nuts, bread crumbs or potato, pan fried until crispy

Leaning toward leaner

Au jus: Pan juices often reduced with no fat added

Braise: Slow cooked to tenderize meats or fish, often little added fat

Broth: Fragrant water-based sauce with infused flavors, i.e. chicken & lemongrass broth

Coulis: All hail the coulis, often a no-fat-added puree of vegetables or fruit

Primavera: Italian for “spring”; indicates vegetables are major ingredient

Provencale: South-of-France-style sauce with tomato and other vegetables

Ask questions if it says

Grilled: Watch out for butter or oil slathered on during grilling

Roasted: Watch out for extra fat used in roasting, i.e. butter basted on roasted chicken

Pan fried: Depends on temperature of pan how much fat is absorbed

Poached: Not always in water; watch out for poached in oil or butter

Sautéed: Butter or oil are used; chefs can limit amount if asked

Steamed: Watch out for butter or oil added after the steaming

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