White rice can be transformed into a side dish worthy of any Thanksgiving table. Briefly sauteed in oil or butter, then simmered with liquid and seasonings over direct heat or in the oven, rice turns into pilaf, a flavorful accompaniment. The initial step of sauteing gives the rice a nutty flavor and a firmer texture than if it were prepared simply by boiling.

Pilaf can be an uncomplicated dish composed of only the grain and cooking liquid, or it can consist of a wide range of additional ingredients including meats or shellfish, vegetables, nuts or dried fruits. Rice is most frequently used to prepare pilaf, though other grains such as bulgur, barley and lentils offer variations on this traditional recipe.

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When making pilaf, cook the grains until tender and slightly firm, not soft or mushy. They should separate easily when poured from a spoon onto a plate. For the best texture, remove the pilaf from the oven, and let it rest covered for 5 to 10 minutes. Then, use a fork to gently fluff the grains and fold in any final flavorings and garnishes just before serving.

"Rice pilaf can be made more colorful and with extra texture by adding cooked wild rice," Olivier Andreini, certified master chef and associate professor in culinary arts at The Culinary Institute of America, explains. "Just make sure to cook the wild rice grains separately from the rest of the pilaf because wild rice takes longer to cook."

Makes 8 servings

2 poblano chilies, seeded and coarsely chopped

½ cup chopped fresh basil

½ cup chopped fresh mint

½ cup chopped fresh oregano

4 teaspoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons minced shallot or yellow onion

1½ cups long-grain white rice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 350 F.

In a small bowl, combine the chilies, basil, mint, and oregano with 3 cups water. Heat the oil in an ovenproof saucepan over medium heat and saute the shallot until translucent, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the rice and saute until coated with oil and heated through, about 1 minute. (Some of the rice may jump or pop.) Add the herb mixture. Bring to a simmer, stirring the rice once or twice to prevent it from clumping together or sticking to the bottom of the pan. Add 1 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Cover the pan and place it in the oven. Cook until the grains are tender to the bite, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes to steam. Uncover and, using a fork, separate the grains and release the steam. Taste pilaf and season with salt and pepper; serve at once.

Nutrition information per 5-ounce serving: 180 cal., 4 g pro., 34 g carbo., 3 g fat, 150 mg sodium, 0 mg chol., 2 g fiber.

(Recipe from The Culinary Institute of America's "Cooking at Home," Wiley, 2003, $40).

By The Culinary Institute of America, for AP Weekly Features