Gil Kulers’ wine pick

> 2007 Cosentino Winery Pinot Grigio, Solano County, Calif.

$20

Two thumbs up

Not overwhelmingly acidic, with flavors of fresh ripe fruit, notes of peach, rosewater, nutmeg, cinnamon and a mineral quality.

Remember back in the day, when pinot grigio used to taste like a pinot grigio and a pinot gris like a pinot gris? Now, who knows what you’re going to get.

For the uninitiated, pinot grigio and pinot gris are Italian and French, respectively, for the same grape, pinot “gray.” The pinot grigio/gris grapes both trend toward the light side and tend to be high in acidity. Their differences lie in how they’re made. A wine made in a pinot grigio style will emphasize tart acidity and lemony fruit. A pinot gris-ish wine will have a little more body and more slatelike, orange-lime, nutmeg-cinnamon qualities.

With warmer weather approaching, both styles should be in your shopping cart.

A lot of pinot grigios from Italy (labeled pinot grigio, naturally) are tasting a lot like the pinot gris you expect from France, Washington and Oregon. Even California —- home to many pinot grigio-styled pinot grigios —- is making wines labeled “pinot grigio,” but they seem to have more in common with the orangy, pineappley pinot gris-style wines.

So, you may ask: “How do I tell the difference?”

As best as I can tell, a pinot grigio priced closer to $20 will likely be more like a pinot gris. Of course, Santa Margherita pinot grigio from Italy costs about $25 and tastes like a pinot grigio, but the 2007 Cosentino Winery pinot grigio from California ($20) tastes like a pinot gris. Go figure.

Gil Kulers is a certified wine educator with the Society of Wine Educators and teaches in-home wine classes. You can reach him at gil.kulers@winekulers.com.