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FOOD GODDESS

Dacquoise brings back memories for readers

Thursday, April 16, 2009

“Once upon a time, at a wedding the bride chose a cake that remains legendary in my mind. The cake itself was ‘crunchy’ rather than ‘cake-y.’ If anyone knows what kind of cake has a crunchy consistency, the goddess does. Thank you for your dedication to those of us in pursuit of the delicious.”

— TAMI SCHUSTER, Conyers

Food goddess

The Food Goddess wishes to answer all your food questions and share your kitchen tips and recipe requests. Write to foodgoddess@ajc.com or to Food Goddess, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, Sixth Floor, 72 Marietta St. N.W., Atlanta, GA 30303.

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When the goddess answered Ms. Schuster’s query, explaining the cake she sought was a dacquoise, a classic French cake composed of several layers of a nut meringue, usually filled with buttercream or whipped cream, she was surprised to hear from so many readers who hold this cake near and dear. The goddess was also entertained to see all the names, variations and, most importantly, the wonderful memories this cake invoked in her minions.

Carol Faver of Covington writes: “What a wonderful surprise to see someone else who remembers that particular dacquoise. I have also been searching for this delightful cake for some 20 years and this was like an answer to a prayer when I read about it. I believe I had it as a birthday cake from Rhodes Bakery on Cheshire Bridge Road in 1965 and I’ve never forgotten how fabulous this cake was.”

The cake also brought back memories for Lisa Sewell of Newnan. Sewell writes: “I read with great interest about the dacquoise, as I, too, greatly enjoyed this cake many years ago. I worked with colleagues from many different countries who brought similar cakes to work. One was called a Pavlova cake [the goddess interjects clarification, Pavlova, popular Down Under, is typically made without nuts as a straight meringue]. Another brought a similar cake, popular in the Philippines, called a sans rival. Many thanks for your hard work in researching the query, it brought back memories of extremely delicious desserts that are so painstaking that while I never replicated them, I have never forgotten them either 20 years later!!”

And in a case of “a rose by any other name,” Melody Wickliffe of Atlanta writes: “I’m real familiar with the exact cake described, because it was my mother’s favorite. I knew it as a pecan torte when it could be ordered from the downtown Rich’s bakery back in the ’50s and ’60s.” Kathy Thomas of Woodstock writes: “The cake request brought to mind my husband’s favorite cake that I have made many times. I know it as ‘feud cake’ and I first tasted it at Captain Anderson’s Restaurant in Panama City, [Fla.], in the late 1970s.” Barb Stout of Milton wraps it up: “As I was reading your question, the first thing that came to my mind was, exactly as the you said, but I called it ‘nuss torte.’ My mother (formerly from Germany) used to make this for special occasions. It was always her favorite cake. It was a spectacular-tasting cake, rich but very light. I am going to try to get this recipe from my mother or other relatives. I won’t rest till I have it — it’s that good! Thanks for bringing back the memory.”

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