Fish fillets are the ultimate convenience food. Many recipes involve very little preparation and take little time to cook. In the long, hot days of summer, fish is a lighter option and keeps the heat out of the kitchen. Seems like a no-brainer.

So why are so many people intimidated by a flimsy 6-ounce piece of fish?

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Ellen Silverman/Special

Trout is easy to grill. Leaving the skin on while grilling helps trout retain its shape and moisture. Reprinted with permission from ‘Bon Appetit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories from Three Generations of Southern Cooking’ by Virginia Willis. (Ten Speed Press)

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Louie Favorite, lfavorite@ajc.com/AJC

Halibut Provencal. How to: Fish fillet photo gallery and video

DINNER DARE
We challenged Virginia Willis to whip up a complete family-friendly dinner, with fresh ingredients, in 30 minutes. Our star chef's answer: Herb-Crusted Fish Fillets, Sauteed Summer Squash and Classic Rice Pilaf in 30 minutes. Get the recipes, step-by-step photos and a short video on how to make the herb crust. • On the web: Find more recipes and information on her cookbook, "Bon Appetit, Y'all" on virginiawillis.com

Many of my students admit to overcooking fish. Instead of a delicate fillet bursting with flavor, their results are tasteless and dry. My philosophy with fish is to give it some sort of protection to keep it from drying out. A crust, a coating, moist vegetables or even using the skin to protect the flesh puts training wheels on these fish recipes and will ensure perfect, moist fish every time.

Ask the chef: If you have questions about how to cook fish quickly and simply, post your question online for chef Virginia Willis.

FISH FILLET RECIPES from Virginia Willis

• Herb-Crusted Tilapia Fillets
• Catfish Tacos
• Cornmeal-Crusted Grouper
• Halibut Provençal with Tomatoes and Zucchini
• Valdosta Grilled Trout with Olive Oil

BUYING TIPS

• Arrival date. Ask when the fish arrived at the store. Fresh fish comes into many markets on Wednesdays and Fridays.

• Take a sniff. Smell the fish, if possible. Fresh fish smells sweet and clean. There should be no strong odor.

• Check the flesh. Look for a moist surface and firm flesh. Splits or cracks in fillets are signs of drying. The fish should not feel slimy.

• Touch test. Press the fish gently. The indentation should spring back. If it doesn’t, that means the flesh is starting to break down; don’t buy it.

• Buy it whole. It’s easiest to check for freshness when buying a whole fish: look for ones with clear eyes, not clouded or sunken. It should have reddish or slightly reddish-brown gills. Brown gills indicate the fish is old.

• Fresh and cold. Keep fish as fresh as possible by burying it in a shallow bed of crushed ice or ice cubes. Cook within a day of purchase.

A FISH DIET AND THE ENVIRONMENT

Fish and shellfish are part of a healthy, well-rounded diet. They are high in protein, low in saturated fats and contain omega-3 fatty acids that are good for your heart. However, it can be a challenge to select seafood harvested by ecologically sound methods or without worrying about environmental contaminants.

Nearly all fish and shellfish contain traces of methylmercury, which occurs naturally in the environment but is also a result of industrial pollution. Fish absorb the chemical as they feed on smaller creatures, so older, larger fish are more likely to contain contaminants. High levels of mercury are most harmful to the developing brains of unborn and young children, so the Food and Drug Administration recommends that women who are or may become pregnant and nursing mothers limit their fish consumption.

The Monterey [Calif.] Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Program, a consumer advisory group, informs people about which seafood to buy based on whether the species are “abundant, well-managed, and caught or farmed in environmentally friendly ways.” For more information on sustainable fish and shellfish, check out www.mbayaq.org.

HOW MUCH FISH TO SERVE?

Whole — 12 ounces per person

Dressed or cleaned — 4 to 6 ounces per person

Fillets or steaks — 5 ounces per person

FISH SUBSTITUTIONS

You’re at the store, recipe in hand, ready to buy some fish and get cooking. But what you need is not in the case. Don’t worry. Simply mix and match within the three types of delicate, medium and firm fish. These categories reflect how fish respond to cooking methods and which substitutions work.

Delicate

Examples include sole, flounder, turbot, plaice and fluke. Treat delicate fish carefully when you cook them. These fish are traditionally sold as fillets and they are best prepared by poaching, broiling, pan-frying or baking.

Medium

Examples include Arctic char, trout, catfish, salmon, mahi-mahi, grouper, snapper, walleye, tilapia, pike and tilefish. These fish are firmer when cooked. They are incredibly versatile and best prepared by baking, broiling, pan-frying or grilling.

Firm

Examples include pompano, amberjack, tuna, shark and swordfish. These fish have a meaty texture and are best prepared with high-heat cooking methods such as grilling, pan-frying or sauteing.