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Sunday, September 30, 2007
Day 3, 4 & 5: The Wonders of the Empire Builder
When Jon and I stepped off of the Lake Shore Limited on Friday morning, I was a little disappointed. The food was subpar, the service was sub, subpar, and about the only nice surprise from the whole trip was a relatively early arrival.
All disappointment with Amtrak vanished, however, the moment we stepped foot onto the Empire Builder on Friday afternoon. For a video of that moment, look below:
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In that video you get a quick glimpse of Dan, our Sleeping Car Attendant (also known as a porter, historically speaking). Dan, without question, was the finest attendant I have ever, ever encountered. And I’ve encountered a lot. He was attentive to the finest detail, he was extremely knowledgable, social, and just an all around stellar guy. I really can’t speak highly enough of him, and I’m guessing it’s no mistake that Amtrak management has put him on the Empire Builder, their flagship long distance train where they want the service to really shine. In a way, I knew from the moment I set foot on the Builder that the trains that followed simply couldn’t compare, and Dan’s level of service is a prime example.
The Empire Builder is named for James J. Hill, the founder of the Great Northern Railway, which is now part of the Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railway (or, the BNSF, for short). Hill was once quoted as saying,
“We are glad now, and at all times, and it has been our policy to try and hold up the hand of that man who is cultivating the land. Most men who have really lived have had, in some shape, their great adventure. This railway is mine. I will make my mark on the face of this earth and no man will ever wipe it out!”
He’s been called the Empire Builder ever since, and the train that bears his name runs from Chicago to Seattle and Portland over the very trackage he refers to in the above quote.
For the past few years, Amtrak has really been pushing the Empire Builder as their true flagship train. The cars on the train are all recently refurbished, the Dining Car carries a full staff with a menu of food prepared in a live galley (most of Amtrak’s other Long Distance trains are operating on what is called a “Diner Lite” menu—more on that in a later blog posting), and the trip is full of small details that make the experience one to remember (gift boxes, champagne and sparking cider when you arrive into your room, for example). If you were to ever pick a train to “sell” the concept of Long Distance train travel, the Empire Builder is probably the one.
The scenery along the trip (especially heading west) isn’t the best you’ll see on Amtrak (the Coast Starlight, Cardinal and California Zephyr probably take the prize there), but you do get a spectacular view of the mountains in Glacier National Park. Since we were heading west, the sun went down as we were in the thick of the scenery, so heading east is something both Jon and I want to come back and do some day.
The Empire Builder is also unique in that it’s the only remaining train in Amtrak’s system that performs a live separation and joining in Spokane, Washington. See today’s blog entry, entitled, “Day 5: Stomach Ache, Thank You!” for how that works.
I really can’t speak highly enough about the ‘Builder, and it would take 100 blog entries to detail the sights and experiences we had. So instead, Jon and I have put together a slideshow of over 67 photos, which will be posted either tonight or tomorrow morning, so keep your eyes peeled. It was a trip that will stay with me for a very, very long time.
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