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A day in the cemetery

Recoleta is home to the most famous cemetery in the city. There lie the rich and famous, including Eva Peron. But today my friend Ely and I went to a different cemetery, in Chacaritas, that’s bigger and in some ways better. More quiet, less touristy.

Today is the anniversary of the death of Carlos Gardel, Argentina’s beloved tango singer, who died in a plane crash 72 years ago. He remains incredibly popular — you can’t go a day without seeing his face somewhere. The people here have a saying that translates: “Each day he sings better.”

Gardel is buried in Chacaritas, and throughout the day people passed by his tomb to pay their respects. They laid flowers beneath his statue and stood in little clusters singing his songs. Some people — mostly men, but one woman — had dressed Gardel-style, in suits and fedoras.

One man wore a tie he claimed was the same one Gardel wore in one of his movies. He posed for photos next to a guitar case open for tips. Oddly, though, he’d placed a scarf over the tie so that it could only be seen if he moved the scarf.

Another man hoisted himself up next to Gardel’s statue and planted a lit cigarette between its fingers. I guess he figured even dead men need a smoke now and again.

Tomorrow I need to hop a boat to Uruguay in order to restart my tourist visa. I can get there in an hour if I take the fast boat across the river to Colonia, a historic little town and popular daytripping spot.

Permalink | Comments (2) | Categories: Buenos Aires

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By Derek

June 26, 2007 12:05 PM | Link to this

Hello Soyia, My wife and I will be in BsAs Jun 30-July 7 celebrating our belated honeymoon. Maybe we could take you to dinner while we are there and catch you up on what has been going on in Atlanta?
Derek and Becky Turney

By Andrew

June 27, 2007 8:19 PM | Link to this

Hi Soyia, I’m a fellow Cox Newspapers expat trying to freelance down in Argentina too. Read and enjoyed your travel series. I’ll be back in BsAs in a few weeks, so shoot me an email if you ever want to touch base or compare notes - apmarra@hotmail.com. Cheers, Andrew

 

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