Still Traveling

By Nancy

February 11, 2005 10:48 AM | Link to this

2/5/2005 The Emory-Tibet Partnership has flourished over the past decade in an unprecedented collaboration between Western scholastic and Tibetan Buddhist wisdom traditions and culture. Next week Emory College Dean Robert A. Paul and his colleagues will visit Emory students who are spending this semester in Dharamsala, India, the capital of the Tibetan exile community. Situated in the foothills of the Himalayas, the city is home to H.H. the Dalai Lama and the seat of the Central Tibetan Administration.

Over the next two weeks a daily blog will feature the students and scholars who are exploring how to bring together the best qualities of these two traditions to enhance the cultural, societal and intellectual development of our global community.

Nancy Seideman Assistant Vice President for Public Affairs Executive Director, Office of University Media Relations Emory University

By Nancy

February 11, 2005 10:50 AM | Link to this

2/7/2005 Arrival and departure: New Delhi and Agra

Delhi, India has the usual modes of transportations—cars, buses, bicycles—but they share the road with rackshaws, horses, water buffalo and camels, all, for the most part moving in the same direction.

As one of our companions, Arri, said, “we’ll never complain about Atlanta traffic again!”

We had arrived at a New Delhi hotel just hours earlier after more than 20 hours in airports and in the air. At breakfast we had a debate on whether it was Sunday or Monday, amused that the Super Bowl was likely still in play.

Our hosts, who greeted us at the airport with a gift of traditional greeting scarves (Khatag), included Geshe Lobsang Negi, Geshe Kalsang Damdul and Geshe Thupten Dorje. They will accompany us throughout our visit —we drove this morning about three hours south of the city to view the Taj Mahal.

But as beautiful and impressive as the Taj Mahal is, it only served as a stark contrast to the poor living conditions I had observed throughout our six-hour roundtrip to the city of Agra. The street was lined with vendors grinding sugar cane and selling mounds of produce. But trash is strewn and piled everywhere, spilling into the streams where women wash laundry.

Many homes are no more than lean-tos and tents or pieces of cloth staked in muddy fields. Girls on crutches, who couldn’t be more than age seven, bang on the windows of stopped cars, following the vehicles as they pull away across lanes of traffic to beg for money.

By Nancy

February 11, 2005 10:52 AM | Link to this

2/8/2005 Dharamsala

We reached Dharamsala tonight after a 14-hour car ride. I know I indicated I’d leave the car topic, but perhaps it’s because I live in Atlanta. Everyone blows their horns constantly, in the city, in the country, on the mountan sides. You are supposed to honk if you are passing anyone but drivers honk at animals, pedestrians, while waiting at a stop light. You hear it so often, it loses it’s impact as a warning sign.

I had looked forward to the country because I thought we’d leave the pollution of Delhi behind (it was difficult to hear our driver—all of 20?—with a hacking cough at his age). I wanted clear skies so I could see the sun, moon and stars. But air pollution is present from Delhi up north almost to the foothills of Dharamsala—I couldn’t even open the van window until then. There are factories along the way (rivers with soap suds in many places) and laden trucks everywhere, even in the mountains, obviously no emissions standards. Trash is strewn along the countryside up into the mountains (it was difficult to look down into a green valley and see trash that was tossed from the roadside). It is customary to throw down trash wherever you happen to be standing, city or country—no evidence of organized disposal. I now understand why environmental groups are debating whether population control should be prominent on their agendas.

But we did find blue skies. One of the most pleasant breaks was when we had to stop to wait for a train alongside a wheat field (accented by brilliant yellow mustard seeds—we were passing through the Winslow providence which produces 80 percent of the country’s wheat). We were mobbed by vendors (apparently they follow the train schedule) with colorful wares, including carts overloaded with fruit and vegetables. We passed through Chandigarh, a city that was designed by a Swiss-French architect in love with rotaries—we passed through about seven in a few miles, with beautifully landscaped centers. The rotaries were controversial when built in the 19560s because they are enormous and made for fast-moving traffic in an area where not many people had cars. Today I think he’d be viewed as a visionary.

In the evening we roared through the main streets of villages, the streets lined with every shop imaginable, and people out for evening strolls. I was envious of people who have a community after living in a cul de sac for ten years. One of the greatest pleasures of the ride was getting to know Geshe Kalsang Damdul better. At one point he sheepishly apologized for needing to call his parents via cell phone. He had promised to call to wish them a happy (Tibetan) new year. Parents are parents wherever we live.

By Nancy

February 11, 2005 10:53 AM | Link to this

2/8/05 On the Road to Dharamsala

This morning as we started out via van for the 14-hour drive to Dharamsala, I was able to add another category that shares Delhi roads—an elephant carrying a bundle of long green grass to feed the cows I suspect. Cows don’t have to fend too much for themselves—once they finish their milking days, they are set free and roam Delhi at will. One of my colleague’s was nudged aside by a cow as he waited on a train platform. Today I don’t blink twice at the sight of a cow standing on a two-foot wide median, staring into the distance, with six lanes of traffic flying past her in both directions (officially it’s three lanes, but it’s kind of create your own).

I remarked to my van companion Geshe Kalsang that I had never seen poverty before Delhi. Geshe Kalsang said quietly, “Nancy, you have not yet seen poverty.” As we drove a few more blocks, Geshe Kalsang said, look, here are the slums. We were driving past what appeared to be tiny shacks molded out of trash. The stench and filth were overwhelming. Although not a person was in sight, people lived in these “homes.” This was poverty.

Yesterday driving on Delhi roads was like playing bumper cars without the bumping. But today we saw the aftermath of several accidents, and were in one ourselves. My van collided with a motorcyle as we attempted to cross oncoming lanes of traffic to enter a shopping strip. Both drivers could have slowed or yielded but the “game” is to challenge. Our left front bumper hit the motorcyle which went down. Amazingly the motorcyle was barely scratched and the rider, thankfully, had a sore ankle but apparently no serious injury. At this point, we witnessed what apparently is a common occurence in India. Several men who had witnessed the accident came up to serve as impartial moderators as both victims stated their case, backed on “our side” by two monks. We couldn’t understand Hindi, but we heard the word “compromise” mentioned over and over again. Everyone present participated in the mediation, passionately, and at times with angry gestures, but everyone was permitted to speak without interruption. Rather than call in the police and suffer from mounds of paperwork, the preference is to resolve the situation immediately when major injuries aren’t involved. It worked—our driver offered 2,000 rupees (about $40 in U.S. currency) which was accepted and we all went on our way. But the chaotic driving style in India no longer seemed amusing to us.

By Nancy

February 11, 2005 10:54 AM | Link to this

2/10/05 New Year

Our visit officially began early Wednesday morning at the Temple as we joined the monks and members of the community in a ceremony to celebrate the Tibetan New Year (Losar). The monks already had begun the ceremony as we arrived and took our places on mats in an open-air pavillion.

In a double row facing each other, the monks, clad in their distinctive saffron and maroon robes, were chanting to invoke Palden Lhamo, one of two major state protectors of the dharma (Tibetan Buddhist teachings). Through these chants, deep gratitude is expressed for the deity’s qualities, because in order to invite her to this place (mentally)—-and especially to ask for her blessings—- appreciation must be expressed through chants and offerings (mounds and mounds of food already in place and symbolized by rice cakes brought to the altar by monks). The chants are accompanied at times throughout the ceremony by the playing of cymbals, drums and wind instruments by the monks.

The entire ceremony is active and quite colorful, as witnessed by the many cameras and videos recording the event. But the ceremony is not limited to the monks. Sweet rice cakes and butter tea (just what it sounds like) are offered to all present, and prayers are offered for the entire world, for all life forms.

The ceremony to invoke the deity concludes, but the celebration continues as we move to the main shrine located in a large room at the center of the pavilion, with open doorways and wide windows that enable the overflow crowd to observe.

By Amanda

February 11, 2005 11:15 AM | Link to this

Nancy You can’t believe how envious I am of this trip. Thank you for sharing the sights and sounds of this incredible journey. Just don’t come back to Atlanta with a whole new attitude on sharing the road — Atlanta already has enough people who challenge each other for the right-of-way! Amanda

By woody hunter

February 12, 2005 1:03 AM | Link to this

Nancy, Susan and I are following you through the traffic, the trash, the animals and the poverty. The trip sounds fascinating and I hope you and Bobby are enjoying all of it. We just returned to Singapore from Siem Reap, Cambodia, and a trip around the great temples of Angkor. The juxtaposition of exquisite beauty with raw sewage, piles of trash, and tiny huts on stilts for whole families is almost beyond comprehension. I’ll send you my own notes on that trip and we can compare experiences. All the best, Woody

By Nancy

February 12, 2005 8:24 AM | Link to this

2/12/05 Some random thoughts on my experience in Dharamsala to date:

• I had been shy about engaging monks in conversation until I met my friends here. I mean, what did I have to offer monks intellectually? What’s there to talk about? Aren’t they always thinking profound thoughts? They’re not.

• To prepare for this trip I took meds to prevent typhoid, am currently on a three-week course of pills to avoid malaria and I received immunizations for polio and hepatitis A. I had been warned about rabies, “Delhi belly,” Japenese encephalitis, and another disease I can’t recall, but it is really bad.

So what happens? I come down with a common cold, the only medical condition that I did not come prepared to treat.

But this experience also reminded me that people around the world die of terrible diseases that can be prevented or effectively treated, and also of the connection between health and the environment.

• I was told it was cold in Dharamsala and to dress in layers. I said, no problem, I grew up in the north, I know cold weather. I don’t. There is no indoor central heating in Dharamsala. Floor heaters provide the only warmth. When I am in the hotel room or in the corridor, I can see my breath. I wear three layers to bed.

• Everything is local. Sam and I visited a shop owned by a former resident of Kashmir and, if I remember correctly, orginally from Iran. He and his family make wonderful laquered papiermachie bowls, trays, figurines, etc. Sam knows seven languages (by the end of this trip he will know Hindi and Tibetan, I’m sure) so he engaged the shop owner in conversation about the roots of various languages. We ended up reviewing a family photo album (inadvertently—the photos are of the work in progress but the entire family is involved in the business) and enjoying glasses of steaming saffron tea together. As it turns out, the shop owner exports to a shop in Marietta, GA. So if you see a label: S. Mustafa & Sons, they do indeed exist.

By Nancy

February 14, 2005 9:14 AM | Link to this

2/11/05 Losar

We’ve been kept so busy I haven’t even had a chance to finish describing Wednesday’s Losar ceremony (also I have since learned that Buddhist ceremonies are LONG and difficult to describe—every time I say, oh, so this action means this, the response is well, yes, but…there are layers and layers).

Anyway, we moved to the main shrine before His Holiness the Dalai Lama’s throne, and the Buddha’s statue. The monks offered symbols and substances that represent good health and happiness. Many of the older monks, some rather frail, participated and, as my companion Mary Alice said, it was so moving to watch these men with weathered faces and know what they had endured before and after the exile from Tibet. We again were offered sweet rice cakes and butter tea, and dried rice to toss in anticipation of a good new year. Those of us new to Tibetan Buddhist ceremonies mimicked others so we wouldn’t do anything “wrong.” But after only about three hours at the ceremony, we knew if we were offered a pinch of dried food substance, sooner or later we would get to throw it—I think adults enjoyed the activity even more than the kids.

The part I looked forward to most was the debate. I had read about the ceremonial debate form (tsok lang), but couldn’t visualize it. And I don’t know if I can explain it (if I can set up a video link in the future I will do so): Two monastery students participate, usually striding parallel to each other up and down the room, first one presenting a position, than the other challenging it.

Because I couldn’t follow the arguments, I focused on their vocal range and body language—each time a question was asked or a statement made, the student would raise his arm behind his head, then bring it down in an arch to make a single clap in his other hand. I found out later that one was arguing the qualifications required to perform various rites at a spiritual ceremony, and the second how to define compassion under certain circumstances. There are no winners or losers—the purpose is inquiry, to reach a deeper understanding of a subject.

As we exited, we presented white scarves on the shrine in honor of His Holiness. In turn, we received red scarves that the Dalai Lama had blown mantras into then knotted—-his blessing for the new year.

Namlo Sartse Tashi Deleg!

By Nancy

February 14, 2005 9:20 AM | Link to this

2/13/05 Himalayas’ Foothills

Sam has taken more than 1,000 photos to date—-and Albert, Arri and the monks aren’t far behind him. We have agreed to share all photos and we’ll post them as soon as possible. We have had terrible problems in downloading—I really wanted that camel photo to transmit.

Going back to Wednesday afternoon (and after this entry I’m going to group by topic—-chronological order obviously isn’t working—we’re just too busy to keep up. By the time I get to Thursday, we’ll be home.) When we drive down from Dharamsala in to the valley—or even a few towns down—it takes a while due to the very windy narrow roads that are meant to handle two lanes, buses, trucks, monks, children, dogs, cows, monkeys…you get the picture. And if you misjudge by just a few inches, it’s a long drop.

But everywhere we drive, the backdrop is the Himalayas (ok, the Himalayas foothills as people keep reminding me—-but they are massive). My bedroom window has a view of the valley below and the mountains in the distance—it’s calming to watch the fog roll into the valley, the hail and violent rainstorms, and the lightening. It’s also cool to actually be above the hawks that are always gliding by.

I’m always first at breakfast and I sit by the window (my table) to watch the same scene—the server stands next to my table and we watch the hawks together. As Sam says, it’s a shame that we need to leave now that we are settling in and making friends.

Back to Wednesday afternoon (see what I mean), we drove to the Sarah campus, about 30 minutes away, to visit the Emory University-Institute of Buddhist Dialectics Tibetan Studies Program in Dharamsala (IBT). Emory has a long standing relationship with the Drepung Loseling Monastery and an increasingly more formal relationship with the IBT—actually, one of the major reasons for this trip is to sign an agreement. This spring semester study abroad program is just one aspect of the Emory-Tibet Partnership.

We have lunch with some of the faculty who teach courses in Tibetan Buddhist philosophy and practice (one of the few disappointments I’ve had this trip is not being able to attend this class, taught by Geshe Dorji Damdul). As evidenced by our tour of the temple, he seems to be able to explain any aspect of Tibetan Buddhist philosophy concisely and in context—I can understand why Laura (Emory student from last year) said that I had to experience the class.

Our four undergraduate students are among 11 American students in the program this year. But all of the students joined us to talk about their experiences to date—they’ve only been here about a month, but they are excited and energized by their teachers and the hospitality offered to them. Tea time is supposed to be calming, but the din in the road is overwhelming as everyone talks at once.

By Amanda

February 14, 2005 10:42 AM | Link to this

Nancy Your experience in India is going far beyond the norm for a tourist. Everyone should go with a “guide” who speaks seven languages and can chat up a shopkeeper.

I love your details about the cold weather and lack of heat, even in the hotel. We tend to think that cold weather is nothing, but that’s because we can always warm up indoors! Amanda

By Nancy

February 14, 2005 4:00 PM | Link to this

2/13/05 A Case of Trumpets

We’re standing in a courtyard waiting for an audience with Gyalwa Karmapa. We hear a trumpeting sound that I am certain is an elephant. Some in the group agree, others think it is someone scraping chairs. I ask Lobsang if we can please go and look for the elephant.

Yes, yes, he says, but after the audience. We look for the elephant but we were all wrong: the sound we heard were thighbone trumpets. Really.

By Nancy

February 14, 2005 4:02 PM | Link to this

2/14/05 Honour Thy Teachers

When I ask Geshe Kalsang about Emory students, he grins and begins to name students from previous semesters. He told me that he was quite touched that several students from last year’s program got together in Atlanta to celebrate, then they called their teachers in Dharamsala (including Geshe Kalsang, of course), to wish them an “auspicious” (a word you pick up immediately with the Buddhists) new year.

While we are in the Sarah temple, I notice that Lobsang stands before a portrait of a man which is placed in a prominent place immediately to the right of an enormous enameled paper mosaic (not sure if that’s how you describe it) of the Buddha. Rather than having a statue, they have selected a tapestry that can be rolled up and taken back to Tibet. I later find out that the portrait is of Geshe Lobsang Gyatso, founder of the Institute of Buddhist Dialectics. He also was Geshe Lobsang’s teacher and mentor.

I later find out that the first day of Losar is the day to remember and honor our teachers. I decided at that moment that I will observe Losar every year.

By Amanda

February 14, 2005 4:50 PM | Link to this

What in the world are thighbone trumpets? Travel writer Paula Thrasher and I had never heard of such things. Could it possibly be what it sounds like? The answer is yes. Here’s the description we found on a Web site:

A ritual instrument often used in Tibetan ceremonies, especially those surrounding fierce and protective deities such as the Dharmapala.

As the above terms show, these so-called trumpets are variously made from the thigh bone of either a tiger or a human, then fitted with a mouth-piece. They make fierce, otherworldly and bone-penetrating sounds. Such human bone trumpets are most often used in the charnel ground rituals of the Chod-pa, i.e. practitioners of Chod.

The illustration shows a trumpet that has been been tightly fitted with leather, and the metal encasing has been enhanced by a turquoise.

To see the illustration, here’s the Web site: (http://www.yoniversum.nl/dakini/bonetrump.html)

By Nancy

February 15, 2005 9:43 AM | Link to this

2/14/05 Albert and Tsondue

We’re all on this trip with Dean Paul for different reasons, but I think that Albert’s connection is particularly interesting.

Albert (an Atlanta resident) has been intrigued by the relationship between Buddhism and science for more than 30 years. He’s a graduate of Emory College, received a PhD in physics, worked in the industry for a while, and is now a patent lawyer.Albert heard about the Tibetan Studies Program and wanted to get involved so he decided to sponsor Tsondue Samphel’s undergraduate education at Emory.

Tsondue, a third year physics major, is Emory’s first Tibetan student. On this trip Albert and Mary Alice met with Tsondue’s parents and several siblings (there are seven altogether).

Albert was a bit nervous when he found out that Tsondue was the favorite son and it was very difficult for his mother to see him go to the United States. But both parents are quite happy about his education and appreciated hearing all about Tsondue’s life in Atlanta and at Emory. Albert has developed a close relationship to Tsondue, meeting him for coffee, helping him to buy a bicycle and taking him to Amicalola Falls to enjoy a region similar to his hometown. His parents wanted every detail because they said Tsondue never writes! So Albert comes to Dharamsala to tell them what their son is up to. Great story.

Albert tried to learn Tibetan for this trip—he enrolled in a 10-week class and lasted six. The first three letters in the Tibetan alphabet are Ka and Ka and Ka, of course all said with a change in tone and emphasis that is difficult to master, never mind discern. I admire Albert for trying, and given the fact that we have picked up words and phrases on this trip, I bet he will try again.

By Nancy

February 16, 2005 2:52 PM | Link to this

2/15/05 On the Third Day of Losar

On the third day of Losar (Feb. 11), we took an early morning walk along a mountain ridge to participate in a ceremony to make offerings of incense and food to the gods of positive sight. In the valley below we could see clouds of smoke from another ceremony. Laughing children, in colorful traditional Tibetan dress, ran past us to the shrine, whirling the barrel-size prayer wheels that were situated along the path. Also all along the route, were piles of rocks (painted white on the sides) and stones with varied offerings placed on top — these cairns represent the universe. As we neared the center there was a proliferation of prayer flags (white, red, blue and yellow symbolizing the earth, sky, wind and water).

The ceremony was under way when we reached the shrine to join hundreds of people, some seated under a pavillion with monks who were chanting, others streaming up the shrine’s external staircase to pay respect to venerable saints of the past whose ashes were contained in stupas on the roof of the shrine. Prayer flags were plastered everywhere.

The mood was festive — the jubilant crowd chanted along with the monks, and people walked by with trays of barley. I took a pinch, but noticed that others scooped up cupfuls and laughed when they noticed how little I had taken. The barley was tossed in the air, of course, and rained heavily down on us. Everyone began to greet each other and shake hands — sort of the Tibetan version of Times Square. I later found out that the more barley you throw, the more auspicious your new year. I’m in trouble.

We began an “ambulation” along a ridge and around a hill on top of which the Dalai Lama’s residence is located. The ambulation was in honor of His Holiness and of the spirits in nature — in streams, mountains, all living beings — which was quite appropriate given our surroundings. Many people take this walk daily, others do prostrations along the entire route, some multiple times.

By Nancy

February 16, 2005 2:58 PM | Link to this

2/16/05 His Holiness The Dalai Lama

On Monday, February 14 at 12:30 p.m., we (Bobby Paul, the Emory delegation, study abroad students, IBD officials and monks) met with the Dalai Lama in a private audience at his residence. This meeting was the major reason for the trip — to receive His Holiness’s blessing for establishing a formal agreement between Emory University and the Institute of Buddhist Dialectics.

We were seated in a large reception room — a comfortable living room setting — to await his arrival. We sat in absolute silence for about five minutes. I had been glad that we had spent almost a week in Dharamsala before meeting the Dalai Lama because now I had a greater understanding and appreciation for what he was about (but now that I knew, I was even more nervous — knowledge sometimes has a downside!).

I need not have worried. From the moment he arrived, the room was filled with his energy, humor and warmth (as Tara Doyle said, it was like he was relaxing with friends in his living room). Bobby Paul thanked His Holiness for receiving us and talked about the progress of the Emory-Tibet Partnership, and said that we had taken his advice to “start small” to our mutual benefit. His Holiness expressed his approval of the deepening of our relationship.

Bobby presented the Dalai Lama with Emory gifts, and also gave him a copy of our Emory-Tibet Partnership brochure. His Holiness examined the brochure carefully and gave an exclamation when he saw the photo of Tsondue Samphel.

The Dalai Lama began a discussion on a wide range of issues, but I’m not going into much detail because it was a private conversation — he spoke to us as if we were personal friends. In response to a question from an Emory student (Megan) about the greatest problems we are facing in the next 50 years, the Dalai Lama said they are: the environment, including the impact of world population; the gap between rich and poor; and the need for countries to rise above individual interests to find common interests in order to develop a sustainable global community. We were honored and privileged that His Holiness spend more than an hour with us.

After our discussion concluded, the formal agreement was signed by His Holiness, the IBD director and Dean Paul. As we rose to leave, we approached the Dalai Lama one by one to be introduced and to receive his blessing. As we bowed our heads, he draped the khatag around our necks and pressed our folded hands together between his own.

Poor Sam had brought his favorite scarf for His Holiness to bless, but when he offered it, instead of returning the scarf by draping it over Sam’s neck (that’s the custom), the Dalai Lama beamed with pleasure and placed it around his own neck (of course Sam was honored — His Holiness wore the colorful striped scarf in the photos that were taken later).

We went into the courtyard where His Holiness joined us for photos. As he began to walk away, the Dalai Lama turned back — he had a khatag that he wanted Albert to give to Tsondue.

The experience of being in His Holiness’s presence is difficult for me to describe, it’s just something that I feel internally that I’m sure will take a while to sort out.

By Nancy

February 21, 2005 2:37 PM | Link to this

2/17/05 In flight (just took off from Paris for Atlanta)

One of the most meaningful aspects of the trip for me was to be present when Bobby, Lobsang and Tibetan scholars discussed how the Emory-Tibet partnership has contributed to our individual missions and — on a grander scale — how together we might benefit society.

Our collaboration was inspired by: the Dalai Lama’s aspiration for bringing the science of the inner world and the science of the outer world together; and the fairly recent and unprecedented interest in Tibetan Buddhist philosophy, psychology, medicine and meditative practice expressed by Western scientists and scholars.

As Bobby says, simply put, we’re exploring and blending the best of eastern and western traditions to create a new culture, new knowledge, that contributes to positive transformation in the world.

There’s already a host of collaborative projects underway including the impact of Tibetan Buddhist meditation on health, research on childhood trauma and recovery among refugee families, projects in performing arts, education, intellectual traditions and on. These initiatives cut across the university, involving Emory researchers, scholars, graduate and undergraduate students. The opportunities and connections just keep expanding.

Our first formal relationship with the Dalai Lama was initiated in 1998 when — while at Emory to deliver the commencement address — an agreement was signed by Emory and the Drepung Loseling Monastery that involved a culture and scholar exchange. This association was expanded to include the Institute of Buddhist Dialectics and other Tibetan institutions.

The agreement we signed with IBD on this trip involves ongoing student exchange and visiting scholar programs, and creating more of a formal structure (Note: Dialectics is an intellectual method of debate — I described one form during the Losar ceremony — that leads to deeper understanding. IBD programs award up to the level of PhD in Buddhist philosophy and its affiliate college teaches religion, Tibetan language and literature, as well as public administration, in-service/teachers training).

So that’s the brief institutional history, but what really intrigues me is the personal story of Bobby and Lobsang’s roles in getting us here. A cultural anthropologist, Bobby has spent much of his academic career focused on comparative religion, and myth and ritual. His dissertation was on the Buddhist symbolic world. He hasn’t visited this region since he did research in Nepal about 30 years ago.

Lobsang attended IBD and was awarded the degree of Geshe Lharampa, the highest degree of learning in Tibetan Buddhism from the Drepung Loseling Monastery. In 1991 he was sent to Atlanta by the monastery to establish the Drepung Loseling Institute that serves as the North American seat of the monastery. Lobsang received a PhD from Emory’s Graduate Institute for Liberal Arts where Bobby became his advisor and mentor (Lobsang currently is a lecturer in our religion department and continues to direct the Drepung Loseling Institute).

Bobby conceived the partnership more than a decade ago. I can’t imagine how he felt watching His Holiness sign the agreement — he did say that it was like “climbing to the mountain top.” It was so moving to be present when your friend and colleague’s dream is realized.

This personal story symbolized what was inherent in so many of the Tibetan rituals, traditions and even in casual conversation — the deep bonds among teacher, mentor and student.

By Nancy

February 23, 2005 3:56 PM | Link to this

2/22/05 Postscript

The on-the-road segment of the blog is complete, but there is still so much to write about! I am going to write on a few more topics, such as greeting ceremonies, tea, etc. We also need to add photos—-we have thousands by now.

I miss my companions. Most of us didn’t know, or hardly knew, each other before we started this journey. It has been a joy to spend time with people who are intellectually curious, supportive and fun. I am so happy that I was able to share such an extraordinary experience with Bobby, Leslee, Arri, Sam, Albert and Mary Alice.

I will never forget the hospitality, warmth, humor and wisdom of the three monks who arranged this trip and were with us every step of the way: Geshe Kalsang Damdul, Geshe Lobsang Negi and Geshe Thupten Dorje. We had a lot of fun together. I think we all felt that we have made new friends (and with email and cell phones, it looks like we will be able to stay in contact). We can’t wait to host the geshes in Atlanta.

By Amanda

February 23, 2005 4:17 PM | Link to this

Nancy Can’t wait to read more about your trip. You are the envy of all your friends, and at least half of the rest of Atlanta! Amanda