AJC.com > Iraq coverage > Blog > Archives > 2006 > January > 04 > Entry
DEL.ICIO.USHistory lesson softens war’s realities
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Ur, Iraq — It almost felt like time travel.
Within minutes, the small bus and a few Humvees had transported the Georgia National Guard soldiers from the middle of a 21st-century military base to an ancient civilization.
From the modern wonders of sophisticated weaponry, Internet technology, cafeterias and laundromats, soldiers of the 48th Brigade Combat Team found themselves steeped in history, walking on grounds that were first settled in 4,000 BC.
Ur, capital of the once powerful Sumerian kingdom, had special meaning to the soldiers — Ur is believed to be the birthplace of Abraham, who some scholars call the father of Christianity, Judaism and Islam.
Once, the mighty Euphrates flowed through Ur. But over the years, the river changed its course, leaving the landscape a rugged vista of cracked earth and mud, hues of brown as far as the eye can see.
Surrounding the ziggurat lie the ruins of royal palaces, tombs and houses, some of them bolstered by reconstruction. Other parts remain as they were thousands of years ago.
“I think this is awesome,” said Spc. Bobby Cash, 28, a sheriff’s deputy from Augusta who serves in the brigade’s military police contingent. “You come here to Iraq to fight a war and get to see so much history.”
Like a holiday
For the Georgia soldiers, the outing felt like a mini holiday in the middle of a grinding yearlong deployment in the desert.
Ur, just outside of Nasiriyah, about 230 miles southeast of Baghdad, falls within the confines of Tallil Air Base, one of Saddam Hussein’s old military installations now used by U.S. forces. Part of the 48th Brigade has been stationed here since late October.
The ancient Mesopotamian city’s centerpiece is a five-floor-high ziggurat that can be easily seen from the road that winds past the chow hall, PX and brigade headquarters at Tallil. The brigade takes soldiers to the site for tours three times a week, a practice the 48th adopted from the Army unit it succeeded here.
Cash and about 20 other soldiers clicked their cameras as Dhaif Mohsen, the unofficial guide of the ancient city, led them through the ruins. He and two brothers have become caretakers of the property since the toppling of Saddam in April 2003.
Mohsen, 46, lives in the modest house in which he was born in the shadow of the imposing ziggurat, which archaeologists say is the most well preserved such structure from the age of the Sumerians. Mohsen’s grandfather and father worked on excavations at the site at various times.
The Sumerians built the terraced structure on top of a temple to the moon god Nanna. Mohsen said the ziggurat served also as administrative center for the city.
Structures similar to ziggurats have been discovered in other areas of the world — the Aztecs, for instance, built terraced temples for their gods. But none is as old as the ziggurats of Mesopotamia.
Brigade soldiers in the western Baghdad area visited another unusually well-preserved ziggurat built by the Kassite rulers of Old Babylonia in the 14th century B.C.
As the 48th Brigade soldiers began their tour, about a dozen Iraqi children in brightly colored clothes ran up to greet them at the base of the structure. The soldiers handed out food and toys before climbing the long, steep staircase.
“Before Muhammad and Jesus were here, the ziggurat was already ancient,” said Capt. Anthony Fournier, 38, a schoolteacher from Augusta who commands Charlie Company of the 1st Battalion, 121st Infantry Regiment. “Maybe it transcends the religious war going on.”
A view and opinions
In Ur, 48th Brigade soldiers climbed the hundreds of steps to the top of the ziggurat, from where they had a panoramic view of the countryside.
When Saddam came to power, he opened Tallil, much to the consternation of archaeologists who feared a military site so close to an ancient wonder would be damaging.
Tourism in Ur declined, especially after the eight-year Iran-Iraq War. Even those who managed to get permission to visit Ur were barred from climbing the ziggurat because of the views of the base.
Mohsen took the soldiers on a tour that lasted about 90 minutes. Bitter about Saddam’s persecution of Shiites in southern Iraq, the guide often included sharp political commentary with his colorful narration.
He told the soldiers that Saddam often compared himself to the Babylonian king Nebuchadnezzar II.
“But Nebuchadnezzar didn’t dry up the marshes,” Mohsen said, referring to Saddam’s efforts to drive out the marsh Arabs from their homelands in southern Iraq. “Nebuchadnezzar didn’t put one million Iraqis in the ground.”
He led the soldiers to one of the tombs where the ground had caved in, leaving only a small, dark opening.
“They catch Saddam in a hole like this,” Mohsen said.
“There’s no love lost, is there?” said Maj. Dean Shoucair, 40, a doctor from Chicago who serves in the 148th Support Battalion’s Charlie Company.
‘This is pretty cool’
The 48th Brigade soldiers were keenly aware that not many Americans have had the opportunity to visit sites such as Ur.
“This is pretty cool,” said 1st Lt. Jonathan Fisher, 26, a schoolteacher from Fayetteville who serves as a chaplain with the 48th, as he stood in one of the courtyards in the house believed to be Abraham’s. “God called Abraham from this house. You don’t get this kind of history in America. This is ancient. This is a precursor to life.”
After many years of neglect, Mohsen said, Iraqi archaeologists are resuming excavations at Ur with United Nations funding.
“I’d like to see what else is under this ground we’re walking on,” said Pfc. Brent Register, a 19-year-old high school graduate from Augusta who works in brigade headquarters.
Mohsen said he hopes the renewed excavations will again spark tourism at Ur.
“This is important not only for Iraqis but for the rest of the world,” he said. “This city is holy land for three major religions.
“Ur means many things to me,” he continued. “This is my father’s home, my grandfather’s home. This is my civilization. My holy place.
“This is a very good thing that the American soldiers have come. They are taking pictures that they will take back to America. Everyone will see Ur.”
Spc. Nicholas Rogers, 22, a machine operator from Covington who works in brigade headquarters, said the soldiers were lucky to see the ruins.
“I think this is great,” he said. “We’re stepping on holy ground.”
Services »
Comments
Commenting is now closed for this entry.
By Andy
January 4, 2006 08:25 AM | Link to this
I met Dhaif and his brothers as part of CMOC operations for the 1st MEF in 2003 just after we took Talill and destroyed the nearby Iraqi division at Whitehorse. He’s an amazing person. He knows more about that site than most scholars. A few things were left out from the descrition of his regular tour: The oldest known arched doorway, the palace with pitch mortar from the naturally oozing ground oil, bricks with cuneiform inscriptions and the replacement bricks from Saddam with “Saddam is great” stamped in them, and most important is not only the river has moved, but the Red Sea use to come up to Ur (An Nasiriyah/Talill) about 4,000 years ago so it was a seaport on the river.
By Jabril Alexander
January 4, 2006 11:44 AM | Link to this
WOW! Great article, Ms. Basu has truly brought together the grand history of an era and the tragic but real history of today. I found this article very moving and enlightening and it appears that the soldiers of the 48th found some tranquility in the midst of war as well.
Jabril Alexander
By Excellent Article
January 4, 2006 11:48 AM | Link to this
Moni, thank you for this article. This is worth reporting and reading. How wonderful to be standing on holy ground. It isn’t often that people are reminded that three religions spring from one source. Christianity-Judaism-Islam. Same source of power just different roads taken to get where we all want to go. Different names for the same goal. Why can’t we all live in peace and harmony as a united family traveling different roads??? I am glad our soldiers were able to visit there.
By Mistee Lambert
January 4, 2006 09:11 PM | Link to this
My husband who is in Iraq with the 48th had the opportunity to see Ur. The pictures he took are unbelieveable.I think it is wonderful that our troops were able to experience the tour of such a place, its a very important part of history. GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS!!!! WE LOVE YOU ALL
By Spudge
January 5, 2006 02:25 PM | Link to this
It’s good to see a positive article on the conflict in Iraq. Despite the continued resistance, I am glad progress is being made.
By Dawn Williams
January 5, 2006 06:48 PM | Link to this
Very well Done Moni as always..its nice to see the many facets of our soldiers journey Bless you for making this journey with our soldiers
By 108th AR soldier
January 6, 2006 01:44 AM | Link to this
While all the headquarters desk soldiers are out touring Talil, we at Scania and the Relay Points are forced to move every 30 days because someone wasn’t happy. The general thought it would be a good idea to spare three soldiers the discomfort of having to stay at a relay point because they were unhappy. The only micromanaging way to do that is to move an entire battalion across 8 Relay Points and the main base of Scania every 30 days. Why can’t the general let the Company commanders manage their people and assignments? It is good to know, that now 2 percent of the people having to move are happy!! Just be a general and sign papers and draw on boards and let soldiers be soldiers. 3 people out of an entire battalion should not justify such an irrational decision. We had it worse in Lutifiyah, Yusifiyah, and Mamuhdiyah living in the Triangle of Death and nobody cared to move us. 98 percent of us are happy. Leave us alone.
By Adrien Neely
January 6, 2006 09:23 AM | Link to this
**Finally, a sane look at the war in Iraq! Our liberal media usually spins it so far left that I have quit reading most of their trash. But this young lady has given me a spark of renewed hope in American Journalism.
Adrien Neely, Vietnam Vet Atlanta, GA
By Another 108th soldier
January 6, 2006 12:42 PM | Link to this
Well said fellow 108th soilder! We just got to know the sector and people in it so we can spot when things are not “right” and got a system in place that works. Now we are being forced to pick up and move once again. We sure didnt get any relief from the triangle so why you worried about our living conditions now? We aint got much but were use to it so just leave us alone, let us do our job and finish this tour and get as far away from this brigade as possible.
By 48th Solider
January 6, 2006 03:04 PM | Link to this
I don’t understand why the 108th soldiers are whinning.. From what I have seen and heard, most of you all spend days and nights on line and in chatroom’s.. While most of us can barely get on line and talk to our family members.. So you are have to move again. Maybe your chain of command see’s where you all are getting bored. I mean, most of us would be, if we did what you all did-NOTHING. And if you so hate your job, then don’t reenlist - our Lt said most of you all are just doing it for the money and not looking at the real reason anyway. Get over yourselves and suck it up.So, you have to move. So sad, that you all can’t take wireless internet with you. Don’t forget why you are here.. Stop your whinning………………
By another 48th soldier
January 6, 2006 07:24 PM | Link to this
Some of the Soldiers, from other units in the 48th has written comments today, towards the soldiers of the 108th.. But nothing has been posted. I am not understand why AJC will allow some soldiers to post things and other’s NOT…..
Well I am going to write this and see what happens.. I too am a soldier ith the 48th.. Not with the 108th, and I have to ask, why is it that the 108th soldiers are whinning. My unit has moved several times and we are going to move again soon. I have visited with the 108th at their camp, and well you guys have it easy. Most of you all stay on line day and night and in chatrooms, when most of us, can barely get on a computer to touch base with our families. How can you be doing your job when the internet is more important? Maybe you chain of command has seen this too.. You are in Iraq for a reason.. Do your job and stop whinning about your chain of command doing their’s. As far as relief from the Triangle, some of us are still in the triangle— we don’t get to sit on a computer day and night and chat in chatrooms…Get Over Yourself…Whinner’s……
Let’s see if this is posted, unlike some of the other 48th soldiers that were not…
By in Iraq
January 7, 2006 08:47 AM | Link to this
108th Soldier’s— you all were not the only ones living in the triangle of death.. Stop whinning, it makes your unit look bad. So you have to move every 30 days, big deal.. Most of us are still in the triangle of death and can’t even get on line very often. Some of us visited you all at Scania, where you all spend most if your days and nights on the internet and in chatrooms.. Get Over Yourselvies..Do your job and maybe you can then complain about something.
By Kat Orr
January 7, 2006 08:56 AM | Link to this
Hey 108th soldiers…. I heard all about it from my “adopted” 108th soldier! I think it STINKS that they are flip-flopping y’all back & forth… what a pain. :-(
Well, all of y’all are in my thoughts & prayers daily….. Will be EXTREMELY glad when y’all get back home!!!!!!
Hang in there… we’re behind you 100%.
By I'm with you guys!
January 7, 2006 04:35 PM | Link to this
Moving again! What gets me is it’s never a move up. If there’s going to be “rotation” now then why can’t the soldiers who have been in the crap fobs and relay stations be moved to Liberty or somewhere like that to finish their tour? Let some of the other guys experience the REAL WAR.
By mnisme
January 7, 2006 10:42 PM | Link to this
This comment is for Adrien Neely. Thank you for your service to your country in Vietnam. I have a question though. How is it that this article presents a sane look at the war? In Vietnam, if a soldier got a pass and went to Saigon or some other destination would a report on that trip represent a sane look at that war? I think it’s great that these soldiers were able to get away for a couple of days to see the historical sites, but that’s all it was. A few days off then back to the war. My husband is a Vietnam veteran and I have a son who is an Iraq veteran.
By Wally
January 8, 2006 06:20 AM | Link to this
Nice story, but would have appreciated a few pictures of what the guys toured.
By Delores
January 9, 2006 11:47 AM | Link to this
48th, another 48th, in Iraq…I think you’re the same person and I wonder if you’re a soldier or a soldier’s family member, but whatever. I have a hard time believing a fellow 48th soldier would speak so cruelly of the troops at Scania. The 108th endured enough in the first half of this tour to be entitled to whine about whatever they want to. How dare you criticize anything they have to say. The 108th soldier that I know doesn’t sit at the computer 24 hours a day.
By Sadden
January 9, 2006 05:06 PM | Link to this
It is really sad to see soldiers arguing with each other. I have family members and friends with several units in Iraq and all are apart of the 48th. Some of my friends are with the 108th and well, I do know that I am able to spend alot of time with them on the computer-day & night.. But I also know that they do have to move a lot and even recently another Scout member got hurt.. The other units I have family with, well, they have had to move alot and they don’t get to have wireless or as much free time as the 108th, but they do get at least a little free time. I just wish that every unit could be equal but I know this can’t be. Guys, don’t get mad at one another, just because some do get more. And other family member’s/ friends, try not to put down what others are saying here.. You really don’t know if they are soldiers or not— but it really doesn’t matter.. It is just one person’s opinion….
By SPC WHINNER!
January 9, 2006 08:53 PM | Link to this
Ok…if we say it, It’s whinning. If you say it, it’s a combat solider expressing his freedom to speak. Now that I understand the rules here’s may take on things. From the very beginning of this deployment, even going back to Ft. Stewart, the Caste System was set into play. There were favored soliders and un-favored soldiers. The most obvious difference was made with certain “Georgia non-Ga troops. The troops that were implanted into the Ga. 48th, and especially those troops from Alabama, (got to keep that rivalry going, don’t you boys!) undeniably got the crap deal in supplies, food, lodging and logistics back then and are still getting the crap deals now(insert a huge whine here). Now the exposure of that truth may tick some of you off, but it doesn’t change the facts. The truth, is the truth, is the truth. People tend to criticize whom they can’t control. So you go ahead. Criticize. But before you give your opinion about someone you don’t know, have you ever heard of a cottad? That’s why most of us Whinner’s are here. We came to do a job and we’re doing it. Without privilege or favor. Hooah!
By Hey 48th soldiers
January 9, 2006 09:10 PM | Link to this
Funny how you can say…” most of us, can barely get on a computer to touch base with our families” and when you get the oppertunity to, you are on the AJC website posting comments. Seems to me, that any time that you get on the computer should be used to talk to the family members you seemingly never get to talk to. And another thing, if the shoe was on the other foot, would you be spatting off at the mouth? Didn’t think so.
By mluft@hotmail.com
January 10, 2006 12:56 AM | Link to this
Agreed Delores, I would venture to say “in iraq” is the same person as well. How pathetic…to 48th soldier…aka….another 48th soldier…aka In Iraq. You are not terribly clever are you? If your words can not stand on their own without you backing them up with phoney posts then please quit wasting the space.
By SSG 108th
January 10, 2006 02:19 AM | Link to this
We had a hard job to do in the triangle, we have an easier job to do now and yes we are required to move all too often, but, we still are soldiers and sometimes that requires doing things we would prefer not to. As for soldiers from other units, we have not walked in your shoes and you have not walked in ours. Enough is enough. Line doggies will always look at everyone else as remfs and support will always claim nothing happens without them,it is the way it is get used to it. I did not want to move but I did with out all the fuss. I am very proud of my platoon for not having griped like I am seeing here in the blog. We at the very least recognize that we have it better here in the Scania AO. Soldiers will always complain about thier living conditions it helps to pass the time but we do not need to burden our families with more worry than they already have. Ruck up and drive on, home is on the horizen now. One last note, thank you to Jeremy Redmon and Louie Favorite; you have walked in our shoes.
By 48th mom
January 10, 2006 09:44 AM | Link to this
ok, Moni, tell us about our 48th.
By WOW
January 10, 2006 11:59 AM | Link to this
108th AR soldier
My son is one of those “Desk Soldiers” you describe. My son hasn’t been to UR yet. Its amazing…when you are being shot at and need help who do you call? If your vehicle hit an IED who do you call? When you have a soldier who needs to be Air-vac out..who do you call? Everyone in this Army has a job…just as important as 108th Ar soldier has. I’m tired of the whining that seems to go around.