Still Traveling

By Beverly Wittler

January 28, 2005 1:09 PM | Link to this

Ocean Plaza at Tybee Island has some great off-season rates, sits right on the ocean, and sports a festive trendy restaurant, The Dolphn Reef attached to the motel. You can watch the waves, check out the ships coming in as you dine. Lovely, romantic too.

By Amanda

January 28, 2005 1:36 PM | Link to this

Hi Beverly That sounds like a good suggestion. I just Googled it, and the place looks nice, but I couldn’t get anything to come up to tell me current room rates — I hate it when that happens. Tybee Island is one of my favorite beach towns, though I haven’t been there in a few years. It’s more laid back, less pretentious than some of the Golden Isles communities to the south. (Not that I don’t enjoy dress-up and dancing at the Cloister, as often as I can afford!) It’s just nice occasionally to stroll on the beach in grungy cutoffs and know that nobody’s going to notice or care. Amanda

By DSC

January 29, 2005 12:04 AM | Link to this

Well, it’s not exactly in the 50-100 range (more like the +/-$125 dollar range, really) but I’ve never stayed at a more romantic spot in the mountains than Heritage Cove Cabins in Cruso, NC.[http://www.heritagecove.com] Nestled in a secluded cove with icy mountain streams cascading down right outside your windows, each cabin is far enough away from the others that you feel like you’re in your own mountain paradise. (And as an added bonus, should you tire of the seclusion, it’s just a short drive to Asheville!)

By Amanda

January 31, 2005 10:55 AM | Link to this

Sounds like a nice place, and looks it, too, from the Web site. And even $150 a night is better than some prices I’ve seen. How far a drive is Cruso from Atlanta?

By Lisa Stauffer

January 31, 2005 4:18 PM | Link to this

Hi Paula, and any others headed to Destin for Spring Break.

I feel practically native since I spend weeks there every year. So, here are some odds and ends that might make your stay more enjoyable:

Websites to help you find concerts and other events:

www.destin-fwb.com This site provides information on local events, as well as links to popular tourist destinations, like The Track arcade, go-carts, and mini-golf.

www.destin.com This is the home page for the local newspaper, The Destin Log. It provides movie and entertainment listings for the current week. For instance, I found there’s a free concert the first Friday of each month at the Destin Commons Center Plaza, 850-337-8700.

www.sandestin.com Many of their events are open to the public. For instance, there are Thai Chi classes each Wednesday morning in April, and an evening concert series on Wednesdays at the Events Plaza at the Village of Baytowne Wharf.

www.seasidefl.com This is the website for the community of Seaside, located about halfway between Panama City and Destin. If the hustle and bustle of Panama City or Destin becomes too much, you can retreat here for a calm interlude. The outdoor concerts are family-friendly. Bring blankets, lawn chairs, and picnics. In April, there are free concerts on the 5th and 9th, in the evening.

Here are some of my favorite “cheap thrills” in Destin:

The free concerts at Seaside, Baytowne Wharf, Destin Commons, and other locations. (Check The Destin Log newspaper or website)

Almond horns from the Donut Hole bakery and restaurant. Be warned: they don’t make almond horns every day, and when they do, they sell out early. The cakes are heavenly, too! (635 E. Highway 98, 6475 U.S. 98 W, 850-837-8824)

Cinema Plus II, in Fort Walton Beach. This historic 1940s theater is now a dinner/dollar theater (pizza, subs, beer, wine). (174 SE Miracle Strip Pkwy, 850-302-0129)

US Air Force Armament Museum (outside the main gate at Eglin Air Force Base). My young nephews went here, and were happy just looking at the planes outside the museum. (Fla. 85, 850-882-4062)

Frozen custard from Shakes Frozen Custard. (1065 E. Highway 98, 850-269-1111)

Henderson Beach State Recreation Area. For a small entrance fee, you can walk on boardwalks across pristine dunes. The mile of undeveloped beach gives a taste of what Florida used to be. Camping is also available. (17000 Emerald Coast Parkway, 850-837-7550)

For little children, there’s a playground on the beach at James Lee Park (unless the recent hurricane damaged it).

These aren’t cheap, but if you’re in the mood for some pampering, Destin has more day spas per mile than any other place I’ve seen. Even barber shops now offer facials and massages.

If you’re planning a Spring break spa visit, now is the time to get reservations.

Here are three spas that are favorites of mine:

The Land of Milk and Honey (1234 Airport Road, 850-650-9055). With its home-like decor, this spa is as far from New Age as you can get. The staff owns the spa, and each client quickly becomes an old friend.

Slender Smiths Day Spa and Salon (1008 Airport Road, 850-650-9989). Large enough to handle groups, but small enough to be comfortable.

Versailles of Destin (10123 U.S. 98 West, 850-650-8095). This opulent spa goes beyond ordinary spa services, offering microdermabrasion and other intensive face treatments.

By Lisa Stauffer

February 3, 2005 9:23 PM | Link to this

There’s a bird that flies all the way across the Atlantic from Germany to spend the winter in paradise. This winter, with our rainy, cold weather, I’d rather be in paradise, too.

I saw that bird last March when I accompanied my husband on a business vacation to Melia Playa Conchal, an all-inclusive resort on the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica. It was our first time at a resort of this caliber, and we fell in love both with Costa Rica and with living like the rich and famous.

Since Costa Rica is near the equator, the days are 12 hours long year round. With sunrise at 6, and sunset at 6, there were long balmy evenings, perfect for dining al fresco. The sea breeze generally kept any mosquitoes at bay. During the day, temperatures climbed into the 90s, but, again, the sea breezes kept us cool… Paradise.

At Melia Playa Conchal everything was included, from the meals and wine to the use of a catamaran and salsa dance classes. Yoga at sunset was one of my favorites. Another favorite was a sunrise birding tour led by a naturalist. It was incredible to see a flock of wild parrots rise up like a green cloud from the branches of a tree.

The resort opened up onto a mile-long sand beach, shaped like a crescent with hills at the ends. We snorkeled among the lava rocks at both sides of this beach, seeing lots of sea life, including rays. One afternoon we hiked into the jungle beyond the hotel. I’ll never forget hearing the howler monkeys’ distinctive call/bark/howl in the distance, and tracking the sound back through the jungle to the very edge of the golf course.

In a tall tree, Papa monkey howled to establish his domain, while the females and babies ate leaves. When my husband howled back, every monkey face turned towards him. Papa monkey let loose with another call, which obviously meant “leave my family alone you ugly furless monkey, you.” Out-howled, we slunk away and all the monkeys calmly turned back to eating.

Our mornings were spent under the shade of umbrellas at the pool. There were tennis courts, classes on local culture, and a variety of “toys” to borrow from the concierge (catamarans, bicycles, snorkel gear, etc.). Horseback rides, fishing trips, spa services, and day-long excursions could be arranged for an extra fee.

For dinner, we could choose from a variety of restaurants. Our favorite, the Italian restaurant, was exquisite, more like a trattoria in Florence than the American-Italian restaurants here.

Luckily when we returned from this paradise, Spring had come to Atlanta. If it had still been rainy and cold, I don?t think I would have been able to make myself get off the airplane. Like the bird that flies over from Germany, I’d like to spend every winter in the paradise of Costa Rica.

By Amanda

February 4, 2005 11:14 AM | Link to this

Hi Lisa You make Costa Rica, and the resort, sound so inviting. I bet you were thinking about it a lot this week when it was so cold and rainy here. I have a good friend who visited Costa Rica with her husband for the first time last year, and they’re going back at the end of February. They loved it. They also stayed at an all-inclusive, and she says it’s the most relaxing vacation they’ve ever had. At least it’s sunny today in Atlanta; makes me think spring is almost here, but I know that’s a big tease!

By Lisa Stauffer

February 5, 2005 1:22 PM | Link to this

The most wonderful part about Costa Rica is that it’s developed enough to be comfortable, but undeveloped enough to be an adventure. The government is stable and committed to providing clean water and education to all the people. In comparison to other Central American countries, it’s pretty safe and the people aren’t wealthy, but they’re not starvation poor either.

On the other hand, the country is just starting to be recognized as a vacation destination, so the roads and other infrastructures are iffy. (For instance, a 40-mile trip might take 2 hours over narrow, pothole-choked mountain roads.) However, this iffy infrastructure protects a lot of wildlife habitat, and small villages’ relative isolation.

In the next decade, lots of this beautiful country is slated for more resort development, which will build infrastructure, but ruin jungles and habitat. So now is the time to go, when you get the best of both worlds.

Unfortunately, recommending that travelers visit Costa Rica will hasten the demise of much that makes the country unique. It’s really a catch 22 situation. But I’m so crazy about the place, I’d go back in a heartbeat.

By The Trip Chicks ( Wendy Swartzell & Ann Lombardi)

February 6, 2005 11:00 PM | Link to this

For a really unconventional spring break, treat yourself to Iceland, the “Northern Jewel of Europe,” only a five-hour flight from Orlando. We did, and found this gem of a country to be a surreal place of ice and steam, gurgling hot springs, rugged lava fields, and welcoming Nordic people.

Home to 40 percent of Iceland’s 280,000 inhabitants, the delightfully uncongested European capital Reykjavik boasts an appealing mix of city attractions, clean air, pristine natural sights, international cuisine, and hot night life. Our middle-aged intuition told us to forego the latter and concentrate instead on the low-key side of Reykjavik. An imposing downtown statue of beloved native son Leif Erikson, the first European to set foot on American soil 1,000 years ago, stands guard over this northernmost world capital. Nearby, the massive Hallgrims Lutheran Church stretches heavenward and on a clear day, offers a splendid 100-mile view.

Our new Icelandic friend, Dorothea Larusdottir, led us through the narrow Reykjavik backstreets, along centuries-old houses topped with corrugated iron. There’s not a tree in sight, we heard, because axe-wielding Vikings chopped down forests long ago to use the wood for fuel and mighty ships.

“Ann couldn’t find you in the telephone book, Dorothea,” Wendy said, as we ambled through the old town. Dorothea grinned, “Let me tell you about our Icelandic family name tradition.” We passed a troop of proud parents toting their newly-baptised babies, pink-cheeked cherubs in flowing white gowns.

“My family name, ‘Larusdottir,’ translates as daughter of Larus,” she explained. “My dad’s first name is ‘Larus.’ Icelandic children take their father’s first name as their own last name and add either ‘son’ or ‘daughter’ at the end. So, my brother’s family name is slightly different from mine because it has a different ending.” We were surprised to find out that residents’ names are alphabetized in the Icelandic phone book by first names rather than last.

Our stomachs were growling noisily as we headed to the busy indoor farmers’ market. There we sampled Icelandic tastebud ticklers like dried fish, morsels of lamb, and an assortment of licorice, some creatively covered with coarse salt. Open-minded as we are about food, we felt somehow a tad suspicious when Dorothea steered us to her neighbor’s fish stall. “Try these,” she winked, handing us four dime-sized, unidentifiable beige chunks which were skewered on toothpicks. She giggled in rapid-fire Icelandic to her pal behind the fish stand.

A small group of curious shoppers soon gathered to watch the action. We quickly downed the mysterious, ammonia-smelling cubes, without a groan or grimace. “You both are now honorary Vikings,” cheered Dorothea, surprised at our hardy American stomachs. The crowd applauded our feat. It seems we had just eaten raw, fermented shark meat, which is covered with rocks in a deep hole for two months. Then it is hung to dry in a shed for another three. We politely took a rain check on the “Black Death,” a bitter Icelandic schnapps said to be the perfect way to cap a shark meat snack.

The next day we peeked into shops with colorful Icelandic woolens and munched on more licorice. Then it was time to explore the most photographed site in all of Iceland: the Blue Lagoon. Sharing the 30-minute cab ride with a bubbly Norwegian woman we met by chance at lunch, our excitement grew as we drove by black lunar-like lava fields sprinkled with green moss.

In the distance, we spotted that much-photographed plume of thick steam. Desperate to escape the frigid air after changing into our bikinis, we raced from the lockers to the water and quickly took the plunge. Imagine swimming in a milky blue, mineral-rich water, heated by geothermal energy more than 5,000 feet underground. The slippery warm water was exquisitely soothing. Scooping up chalky clay silt from underneath our feet, we slathered it over our faces like the natives do, hoping it quickly would work its magic so we could depart as beauty queens. Around us, happy tourists and locals alike splashed, relaxed, and rejuvenated. Bundled up in their insulated red jackets, lifeguards in ski caps reminded us of the Icelandic version of a scene straight out of “Baywatch.”

The next day our long-awaited “Golden Circle” tour beckoned. The 8-hour daytrip whisked us by bus away from the city to the heart of inner Iceland. At Thingvellir National park, site of the world’s first parliament in 930 A.D., we stood at the edge of a huge rift of tectonic plates, a dramatic valley dividing North America and Eurasia. A stone’s throw away were the thundering Gullfoss waterfalls and a lively “Geyser,” one of the country’s most active hot springs. Every few minutes, boiling sulphur water exploded high into the air while awestruck tourists gasped at mother nature’s display.

With stunning fjords, crackling glaciers, and energetic geysers, unspoiled Iceland is a nature-lover’s dream. Yet we had barely scratched the surface of this European land so close to our own shores. “Takk,” Iceland, for your lingering warmth and beauty. We know we will return.

By Jemille Williams

February 7, 2005 3:44 PM | Link to this

“Where the Boys Aren’t: Neigh Misty for Me”

For our most unusual spring break we stepped into the pages of Marguerite Henry’s “Misty of Chincoteague” on Virginia’s Chincoteague Island! It was the perfect time to visit. Traffic-shy ponies grazed closer to the road. They were still farther away than we had hoped for, but we were told they can almost completely disappear in the summer. Pony road apples were tangible proof that they are no strangers to the pavement, but likely only when we’re not looking.

The beach has the same sweeping, pristine aspect as Cumberland Island, without any of the difficulties in getting over there. Of course, this means that you have to come at an off-peak time to have it all to yourself - as we did.

There are about a dozen boating companies that can take you on fascinating cruises to see the ponies and the other wildlife more up-close and personal. From the vantage point of our car, our most satisfying wildlife encounter was with several Maryland terrapins (Go Terps!) in the canal alongside the road. We laughed at a young turtle valiantly struggling up the bank. Mother turtles have few resources to lend a “hand,” and just seemed to be sitting there, patiently providing encouragement. We also enjoyed seeing some Canada geese, mallard ducks, and tiny Sitka deer.

The Chincoteague Pony Center is not to be missed. Pony rides and shows are offered, as well as an opportunity to meet and greet two of Misty’s actual descendants! They have a video showing continuously in a video room and have the obligatory gift shop, offering all manner of horsey, nautical, and wildlife gifts and souvenirs. Chincoteague has all the typical tourist-trap beach-town offerings of mini-golf, T-shirt shops, seafood and fast-food restaurants, which conflict with its title of the largest grouping of virtually pristine barrier islands.

This truly is the vacation spot for everyone. You can do nothing but drive over and laze on the beach or get your ‘Teague on watching the live pony show from a corral-side bench or observing wildlife from the comfortable seats on a pontoon boat or paddling your own kayak or piloting your own bike or hoofing it with your own two feet through the pine forest. (It actually looks just like the movie. I remember thinking, when I first saw the film, when the children spotted Misty in the woods that with all that pine straw it was a fakey set. I thought it didn’t look like any island I’d ever seen, but 40 years later I’m proven wrong.)

There’s also fishing, clamming and crabbing for those who really want to work up an appetite. For the less intrepid, a visit to the delightful and especially humane (they release and replenish their creatures frequently) aquarium is a perfect opportunity to look and touch indigenous creatures. The salt and freshwater marsh is home to a panoply of wildlife and is a resting point on the migratory bird route.

Alas, I did not fulfill my dream of attending a pony-penning, but then again, with all the crowds, I guess I’ll just postpone it until my grandchildren arrive one fine day! For dates and all the information you’ll need to plan your visit, visit their Web site, www.chincoteague.com.

Jemille Williams, Alpharetta

By Jemille Williams

February 7, 2005 4:43 PM | Link to this

Blairsville is for Lovers: You’ll Get Misty over Misty Mountain Inn & Cottages

Just 90 minutes north via Ga. 400 and U.S. 19 in Blairsville are the Misty Mountain Cottages. I found them because we wanted to take our dog with us when we went up there to see the fantabulous Leonid Meteor Shower of 2003. (They were awarded 4 Paws by Pets Welcome.) It was a bust, due to cloud-cover, but we were more than happy with our accommodations. We were in either the Poplar or Pinecone, which had a basic, family atmosphere, but the Rose, Dogwood and Maple sound romantic, and they’re all only $100. There are differences in satellite TV reception and Jacuzzi and canopy beds, so look at the descriptions for each cottage.

As I didn’t look into them, I can only assume they are as nice as the photos on the Web site make them appear, but the innkeeper couldn’t be sweeter and everything was clean and comfortable in the less-romantic cabin we had.

I find it sexier to have a separate cabin, so you don’t have to be self-conscious about your next-door neighbors, as in most country inns. The six cottages are spread over four acres, so there’s plenty of privacy for everyone, while not feeling that you’re all alone in the woods — if you’re prone to frighten easily (like my sister — not me!) The tin roof is especially wonderful if you’re lucky enough to get rain at night! And each has a wood-burning fireplace — always a plus for cold-night snuggling.

Blairsville has a smattering of restaurants and shops, but the natural beauty is the real attraction. There’s horseback riding and hiking all around. Brasstown Bald, the highest point in Georgia, is only 5 minutes away, and two of the most popular state parks — Vogel and DeSoto Falls are close by, as well as Raven Cliffs. The Richard Russell Scenic Highway is listed as one of the Top 10 Most Beautiful in America. All of these are within 15 minutes of Misty Mountain. All the delights of Helen and the Blue Ridge Scenic Railway are within a half-hour’s drive. There’s even a model railroad museum right next door.

Lest you think my recommendation is too tepid, (due to my not actually staying in one of the romantic cottages or rooms in the inn) do note that they are a Registered Property of American Historic Inns. Visit their web-site at www.mistymountaininn.com. For non-Valentine’s Day gatherings, they are also an exceptional place for groups, with such a diverse offering of accommodations without everybody being in everyone else’s way.

Jemille Williams, Alpharetta